#7 Kibun Sushi(紀文寿司) in Asakusa(浅草), Tokyo
The old sushi restaurant which welcomes anyone anytime
What do you feel about Asakusa? Asakusa is a well-known tourist spot in Tokyo among travelers. At the same time, there are so many restaurants including those with a long history. Therefore, I'm so interested in how travelers from all over the world choose a restaurant. As I introduced on the first issue of this blog, you can't go wrong with Bentenyama-Miyako sushi also, but there are some other choices.
The features of Kibun-Sushi
Kibun-Sushi is one of the oldest sushi restaurants in Asakusa which is founded in 1903. Probably, you can feel its history only seeing the exterior of a building.
The remarkable points of this restaurant are the following three. That is to say, traditional cookery of Edomae sushi, outstanding atmosphere, and no reservations required. I think this restaurant is suitable for travelers who want to try genuine traditional Edomae sushi freely.
The shari (sushi rice) of Kibun-Sushi
The hardness of rice: medium
The temperature of shari: low, but not so bad
Saltiness: weak
Sourness: weak
Sweetness: weak
Cost: affordable
My recommended menu: Hamaguri, hard clam and other "Nimono" (simmered fishes)
Details of Kibun Sushi
Hamaguri, hard clam
The texture is soft and the flavor is nice. Nitsume sauce enhances hamaguri's good points.
Nitsume sauce of Kibun-Sushi is the richest in Japan. Therefore, many people re-visit this restaurant for its unforgettable taste of nitsume sauce.
Anago, conger eel
It's chewy skin and moist inside. Ordinary, the skin is also moist, so this cookery is unique.
Ni-ika, simmered squid
It's so tender, but you can enjoy texture at the same time.
Ni-hotate, simmered scallop
It is thick hotate, and the taste of marinade liquid is gentle. Namely, it can be said that nitsume sauce is a leading role. Thanks to the nitsume sauce, the sweetness of hotate and sourness of shari stand out.
Kohada
Even though this sushi restaurant has a long history, dehydration with salt is light. At many old sushi restaurants, dehydration is heavy, so the texture tends to be hard.
Kasugo, young sea bream
The texture and flavor are remarkable. In addition to the "nimono", the "shimemono", which stands for the fishes marinated salt and vinegar, is my recommended, too.
Name：Kibun Sushi
Budget：¥3,000〜
TEL：+81-3--3841-0984
Address：1-17-10 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Opening hours：Weekdays・Sat.12:00～14:00、17:00～21:00、Sun. 12:00～19:30
Closed：Wednes day
Japanese website
#6 Sushi-dokoro Yamada(鮨處やまだ) in Ginza(銀座), Tokyo
Outstanding characteristic Edomae Sushi
The master of this sushi restaurant is very characteristics. Because Yamada oyakata (master) offers only 15 pieces of nigiri and doesn't offer tsumami (foods for Japanese sake) and gari (ginger pickled in sweetened vinegar). Currently, almost all new sushi restaurant offers only omakase course including both nigiri and tsumami, so the trial of Yamada oyakata can be said as unique.
The features of Yamada
As mentioned above, Yamada oyakata's cookery is very unique, however, it isn't "eccentric creativeness" but the creativeness based on the traditional Edomae sushi (Tokyo-style sushi). You can feel the progress of Edomae sushi throughout eating his nigiri. Actually, I visited with Singaporean friends this time, and they made out the differences of Yamada oyakata soon.
The shari (sushi rice) of Yamada
The hardness of rice: slightly hard
The temperature of shari: adjust to each sushi ingredients
Saltiness: medium
Sourness: medium
Sweetness: very weak
Cost: affordable in Ginza
My recommended menu: Kohada, gizzard shad
Yamada oyakata uses bigger size of kohadas, aka "nakazumi", so texture and flavor is outstanding.
Details of Yamada
Kohada
Yamada oyakata chooses bigger kohadas. Though the body is big, the taste is awesome. It’s not hard at all. Very soft and moist. This is totally owing to his technique of marinating fish. And, his kohadas seem to be samurai armor!
Maguro which is zuke
"Zuke" is traditional cookery for Edomae sushi, which is marinating a yushimo-processed red-flesh (making the surface marbled, for example, by pouring hot water over it) in a nikiri sauce based on soy sauce for a while. However, Yamada oyakata boils a red-flesh in a 50-degree nikiri sauce for 20 minutes.
Tai, or other white-fleshed fish
As I mentioned above, the cookery of Yamada oyakata is unique, however he regards the flavor of fish as important. So, he doesn't serve fatty fish firstly but serves white-fleshed fish. Although there is an exception, you can enjoy the flavor of white-fleshed fish before fatty fish like toro (the fatty meat of tuna) or nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch).
Ama-ebi, sweet shrimp
The cookeries of shrimps in sushi restaurants are mainly boiling or using raw flesh. However, Yamada oyakata chops sweet shrimps in order to increase the harmony with shari. Once you put sushi into your mouth, you can feel the strong sweetness of shrimps and gentle sourness of shari.
Some other fishes which aren't used for Edomae sushi ordinally
For example, Tokubire(sailfin poacher), Masunosuke(Japanese king salmon, Chinook salmon)... and so on. You can encounter the fishes you've never had before at Yamada!
Name：Sushi-dokoro Yamada
Budget：¥15,000～20,000
TEL：+81-3-3572-7534
Address：3F 26th Polestar bldg, 7-2-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Opening hours：18:00～21:30
Closed：Sun, public holiday
Japanese website
#5 Sushi Watanabe(鮨わたなべ) in Ginza(銀座), Tokyo
Genuine Edomae (Tokyo-style) sushi which has also creativity
Once upon a time, the sushi chef called "the God of sushi" was in Tokyo. His name is Kato Hiroaki. Even most Japanese don't know his name these days, but the techniques were genuine Edomae (Tokyo-style) because he was the oyakata (master) of Yanagibashi-miyako belonged to the family record of Bentenyama-miyako founded in 1866. And, the oyakata of Ginza Watanabe is the last apprentice of legendary Mr. Kato.
The features of Sushi Watanabe
Thus, Watanabe oyakata has carried on the tradition of sushi. However, his sushi is not got caught up with old stereotypes. He utilizes authentic ways and succeeds to express his original sushi. You can enjoy both authentic Edomae sushi and revolutionary Edomae sushi at this sushi restaurant.
The shari (sushi rice) of Sushi Watanabe
The hardness of rice: medium
The temperature of shari: just right
Saltiness: weak
Sourness: weak
Sweetness: weak
Cost: affordable for going price of Ginza
My recommended menu: Kohada and other silver-skinned fishes.
The way of marinating by Watanabe oyakata is outstanding. The tastes of fishes are changed dramatically.
Details of Sushi Watanabe
小鰭 (kohada, gizzard shad)
From Tokyo bay.
It's marinated strongly in order to increase its taste because kohadas in the summer season have little taste. However, it doesn't lose freshness.
小鰭 (kohada, gizzard shad)
From Ariake sea, after the spawning season.
It's marinated in the saltwater of herring roe on kelp. Therefore, kohada gets another umami in spite of the timing after the spawning season.
鯵の棒寿司 (Bo-Zushi of Japanese horse mackerel)
Ordinally Japanese horse mackerel is used after being got rid of the skin, however, Watanabe oyakata uses it with skin.
Therefore, you can enjoy more and more flavor every you bite.
蒸し鮑 (mushi-awabi, steamed abalone)
The livers are also used, so the taste is complex and the flavor is nice.
ボタンエビ (Botan-ebi, spot shrimp)
Its sweetness is strong because shrimp is let rest from the morning.
ハタ(Hata, grouper)
Kobu-jime (kelp marinade). The attraction is strong texture and strong umami. Here in Sushi Watanabe, please do not swallow after only a few bites!
Japanese website
Sightseeing spots around
皇居: Imperial Palace (former castle in Edo period)
Name：Sushi Watanabe
Budget：¥15,000〜¥20,000
TEL：+81-3-3572-3330
Address：3F Ginza Bldg,5-6-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Opening hours：17：00～23：00
Closed：Sun, public holiday
Japanese website
#4 Kizushi(喜寿司) in Ningyo-cho(人形町), Tokyo
The signature of Edomae sushi (Tokyo style sushi)
"Kizushi" stands for "the sushi of delight" in Japanese. This sushi restaurant was founded in 1923 and now regarded as "the three founders of Edomae sushi". Bentenyama-miyako sushi, which I introduced before, is also "the three founders of Edomae sushi". Therefore, it's worth visiting if you are interested in traditional sushi.
The features of Kizushi
Everyone who visits this sushi restaurant says that its atmosphere is incredibly great. The building is almost 70 years old and its interiors are unique styles early in Showa era.
And, its cookery is absolutely traditional. The temperature of shari is lower than those of current young sushi chefs, but the balance of sushi toppings are good. Together with its building, this sushi restaurant is as if it's the museum of sushi. It is not an exaggeration to say that it is a miracle, you can enjoy this sushi restaurant at least JPY3,500.
The shari (sushi rice) of Kizushi
The hardness of rice: medium
The temperature of shari: low
Saltiness: slightly weak
Sourness: slightly weak
Sweetness: slightly weak
Cost: Very affordable for lunchtime
My recommended menu: 真梶木(makajiki, striped marlin)
Details of Kizushi
真梶木(makajiki, striped marlin)
This is seasonal sushi fish in late winter. A long time ago, makajiki was used instead of tuna, at the point of its strong flavor. However, many young sushi chefs aren't willing to use it. Having makajiki is one of the attraction when visiting sushi restaurants which have a long history.
墨烏賊(sumi-ika, cuttlefish)
Sumi-ika is a traditional and major sushi topping of Edomae sushi. The texture is harder than aori-ika (oval squid) or Kensaki-ika (swordtip squid), and the most crispy. Therefore, it goes great with shari's grains of rice. At Kizushi, if you are lucky, you can have a sumi-ika caught in Tokyo Bay, namely genuine Edomae (in front of Tokyo city).
縞鯵 (shimaaji, striped jack)
This is seasonal sushi fish in summer. Its tough texture, fatty flesh, and strong flavor are unique tastes.
穴子(anago, conger eel)
The anago of Kizushi is white. The way of simmering is unique, so you can enjoy the texture melting in your mouth. The nitsume sauce is a deep taste. This way is common in the old days but uncommon at present.
玉子(tamago, sushi omelette)
This serving style is called "Kuragake", which is "saddle", the same as Bentenyama-miyako sushi. The texture of Kizushi's tamago is condensed but not hard, just moist.
Sightseeing spots around Kizushi
Ningyocho is a very old town in Tokyo, so just taking a walk is a lot enjoyable.
Dorayaki of Seijuken is awesome.
Name：Kizushi
Budget：Lunch¥3,500~, Dinner¥5,000~
TEL：+81-3-3666-1682
Address：2-7-13, Nihonbashi-ningyocho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Opening hours：Weekday 11:45～14:30, 17:00～21:30 Sat. 11:45～21:00
Closed：Sun., public holiday
Japanese site
#3 Sushi Keita(鮨 桂太) in Tsukiji(築地), Tokyo
Unique sushi restaurant in Tsukiji
Keita Oyakata (master) worked at three unique sushi restaurants. That is to say, Wakichi in Sapporo, Mizutani, and Taichi in Ginza. Mizutani has been closed already, but the other two are representative sushi restaurants in Japan obviously.
And, when I visited sushi Keita, several international travelers visited. Keita Oyakata welcomes international travelers.
The features of Sushi Keita
Though Keita Oyakata is around 30 years old, his techniques are remarkable. For example, shari made by him bursts like balsams.
He uses only red vinegar, mixing three different types. However, the taste is mild. In general, shari with only red vinegar, made from fermented sake lees, is very sour and vinegary. Keita Oyakata controls the tastes of red vinegar well, so his shari is filled with umami based on red vinegar but not so sour. Moreover, the temperature of shari is quite appropriate.
Furthermore, he has a good sense of otsumami (dishes before nigiri). Otsumami at sushi restaurants won't be the leads. Because sushi restaurants are the place to eat sushi. Recently, there are Japanese customers who would like to have dishes at sushi restaurants with sake, however, it is nonsense in my opinion. If you would like to have the dishes based on complex cooking ways, you'd better visit Japanese cuisine restaurants.
The shari (sushi rice) of Sushi Keita
The hardness of rice: hard
The temperature of shari: just right
Saltiness: slightly strong
Sourness: slightly strong
Sweetness: weak
Cost: Not cheap, but so affordable
My recommended menu: Akamutsu (Nodoguro), rosy seabass
Details of Sushi Keita
アカムツ (akamutsu or nodoguro, rosy seabass)
Akamutsu, aka nodoguro, got favorite in recent years in Japan. So, cookery for sushi seems to be mentioned almost everything. However, I changed my mind after having had Keita oyakata's akamutsu. He smokes akamutsu, though people toast generally. The texture is quite similar to raw fish, but the taste is completely different.
鯵 (aji, horse mackerel)
Keita Oyakata uses chives, gingers and green perillas as a seasoning. These go great with deep flavor horse mackerels. And, he cuts those at a slant deeply to makes their textures better.
小鰭 (kohada, gizzard shad)
How to use oboro, a paste made from shrimp, is very well. His oboro isn't so sweet, so it doesn't disturb the taste of kohada.
蛤 (hamaguri, hard clam)
The cookery of marinating in a sauce made from hard clam broth and soy sauce is so authentic. The contrast of tastes between marinating and shari is fascinating.
赤貝 (akagai, ark shell)
Yuriage port in Miyagi prefecture is known for the best akagai production. The taste and flavor are totally different from other places.
玉子 (tamago , sushi omelette)
The texture is wonderful. Moist, fluffy, creamy.
Japanese website
Sightseeing spots around Sushi Keita
築地場外市場:
築地本願寺
佃島: There are old and famous tsukudani, preserved food boiled down in soy sauce, shops.
Name：Sushi Keita
Budget：Omakase ¥17,000
TEL：+81-3-3-6264-2234
Address：6-6-4 Tsukiji, chuo-ku, Tokyo
Opening hours：Tue, Thu, Fri18:00～22:30、Wed, Sat, Sun11:30～14:30、18:00～22:30
Closed：Mon
