#6 Sushi-dokoro Yamada(鮨處やまだ) in Ginza(銀座), Tokyo

Outstanding characteristic Edomae Sushi

The master of this sushi restaurant is very characteristics. Because Yamada oyakata (master) offers only 15 pieces of nigiri and doesn't offer tsumami (foods for Japanese sake) and gari (ginger pickled in sweetened vinegar). Currently, almost all new sushi restaurant offers only omakase course including both nigiri and tsumami, so the trial of Yamada oyakata can be said as unique.

The features of Yamada

As mentioned above, Yamada oyakata's cookery is very unique, however, it isn't "eccentric creativeness" but the creativeness based on the traditional Edomae sushi (Tokyo-style sushi). You can feel the progress of Edomae sushi throughout eating his nigiri. Actually, I visited with Singaporean friends this time, and they made out the differences of Yamada oyakata soon.

The shari (sushi rice) of Yamada

The hardness of rice: slightly hard

The temperature of shari: adjust to each sushi ingredients

Saltiness: medium

Sourness: medium

Sweetness: very weak

Cost: affordable in Ginza

My recommended menu: Kohada, gizzard shad

Yamada oyakata uses bigger size of kohadas,  aka "nakazumi", so texture and flavor is outstanding.

Details of Yamada

Kohada
Yamada oyakata chooses bigger kohadas. Though the body is big, the taste is awesome. It’s not hard at all. Very soft and moist. This is totally owing to his technique of marinating fish. And, his kohadas seem to be samurai armor!

Maguro which is zuke

"Zuke" is traditional cookery for Edomae sushi, which is marinating a yushimo-processed red-flesh (making the surface marbled, for example, by pouring hot water over it) in a nikiri sauce based on soy sauce for a while. However, Yamada oyakata boils a red-flesh in a 50-degree nikiri sauce for 20 minutes.

Tai, or other white-fleshed fish

As I mentioned above, the cookery of Yamada oyakata is unique, however he regards the flavor of fish as important. So, he doesn't serve fatty fish firstly but serves white-fleshed fish. Although there is an exception, you can enjoy the flavor of white-fleshed fish before fatty fish like toro (the fatty meat of tuna) or nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch).

Ama-ebi, sweet shrimp

The cookeries of shrimps in sushi restaurants are mainly boiling or using raw flesh. However, Yamada oyakata chops sweet shrimps in order to increase the harmony with shari. Once you put sushi into your mouth, you can feel the strong sweetness of shrimps and gentle sourness of shari.

Some other fishes which aren't used for Edomae sushi ordinally

For example, Tokubire(sailfin poacher), Masunosuke(Japanese king salmon, Chinook salmon)... and so on. You can encounter the fishes you've never had before at Yamada!

Name：Sushi-dokoro Yamada

Budget：¥15,000～20,000

TEL：+81-3-3572-7534

Address：3F 26th Polestar bldg, 7-2-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Opening hours：18:00～21:30

Closed：Sun, public holiday

Japanese website